Makalu
Makalu from the southwest
MakaluLocation on Nepal/Tibet border
Elevation 8,462 metres (27,762 ft)[1]
Ranked 5th
Location Nepal—Tibet
Range Himalayas
Prominence 2,386 m (7,828 ft)
Coordinates 27°53′21″N 87°05′19″E / 27.88917°N 87.08861°E / 27.88917; 87.08861Coordinates: 27°53′21″N 87°05′19″E / 27.88917°N 87.08861°E / 27.88917; 87.08861
First ascent May 15, 1955 by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy
Easiest route snow/ice climb
Listing Eight-thousander
Ultra
Makalu (in Nepal officially मकालु;in China officially Makaru; Chinese: 马卡鲁山, Pinyin: Mǎkǎlǔ Shān) is the fifth highest mountain in the world and is located 22 km (14 mi) east of Mount Everest, on the border between Nepal and China. One of the eight-thousanders, Makalu is an isolated peak whose shape is a four-sided pyramid.
Makalu has two notable subsidiary peaks. Kangchungtse, or Makalu II, 7,678 m (25,190 ft), lies about 3 km (2 mi) north-northwest of the main summit. Rising about 5 km (3.1 mi) north-northeast of the main summit across a broad plateau, and connected to Kangchungtse by a narrow, 7,200 m saddle, is Chomo Lonzo, 7,804 m (25,604 ft).
[edit] Climbing History
The first attempt on Makalu was made by an American team led by William Siri in the spring of 1954. They attempted the southeast ridge but were turned back at 7,100 m (23,300 ft) by a constant barrage of storms. A New Zealand team including Sir Edmund Hillary was also active in the spring, but did not get very high due to injury and illness. In the fall of 1954, a French reconnaissance expedition made the first ascents of the subsidiary summits Kangchungtse (October 22: Jean Franco, Lionel Terray, Sirdar Gyaltsen Norbu and Pa Norbu) and Chomo Lonzo (October 30(?): Jean Couzy and Terray).[2]
Makalu was first climbed on May 15, 1955 by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy of a French expedition led by Jean Franco. Franco, G. Magnone and Sirdar Gyaltsen Norbu summitted the next day, followed by Bouvier, S. Coupe, Leroux and A. Vialatte on the 17th. The French team climbed Makalu by the north face and northeast ridge, via the saddle between Makalu and Kangchungtse (the Makalu-La), establishing the standard route.[2]
The first ascent of the southeast ridge route attempted by the Americans was made by Y. Ozaki and A. Tanaka from a Japanese expedition on May 23, 1970. The very technical West Pillar route was climbed in May, 1971 by Frenchmen B. Mellet and Y. Seigneur.[2]. The second ascent of the West Pillar was completed in May, 1980 by John Roskelley (summit), Chris Kopczynski, James States and Kim Momb, without Sherpa support and without bottled oxygen.[3]
On or about January 27, 2006, the French mountaineer Jean-Christophe Lafaille disappeared on Makalu while trying to make the first winter ascent.[4]
Makalu was first climbed in winter on February 9th 2009 by Italian Simone Moro and Kazakh Denis Urubko.[5][6] It was the final Nepali 8000er to be climbed in winter conditions. Moro had previously made the first winter ascent of Shishapangma in winter 2005 with Pole Piotr Morawski.
Makalu is one of the harder eight-thousanders, and is considered one of the most difficult mountains in the world to climb. The mountain is notorious for its steep pitches and knife-edged ridges that are completely open to the elements. The final ascent of the summit pyramid involves technical rock/ice climbing.
Attractions
While the most obvious attractions in Nepal are its majestic mountains and ruggedly beautiful landscapes, there are many historic and cultural treasures to appreciate. Bhaktapur Durbar Square in the town of Bhaktapur near Kathmandu is one of these treasures that should not be missed. It features the spectacular 17th century Lion Gate, the richly decorated Golden Gate and the nearby Palace of Fifty-Five windows. The Central Zoo In Jawalakhel is both a research and educational facility, welcoming animal-lovers to view the more than 900 birds, mammals, reptiles and fish on exhibit. Visitors may also enjoy an elephant ride as well as the picnic facilities and paddle boats.
There are also a number of national parks which protect the diverse wildlife and their habitats in Nepal. The Davis Falls (also known as Patale Chhango, Hell’s Falls, Devi’s Falls and Devin Falls) is an area renowned for its tranquility and mystic legends. The nearby Mahendra Cave (referred to as the House of Bats by locals) is also well worth a visit. History enthusiasts should make a point of visiting the Gorkha Royal Palace standing proudly on a hill overlooking the Gorkha Durbar. The climb to the elaborately decorated Newari-architectural style palace is challenging, but the view of the green landscapes, snow-capped Himalayas and the town below, as well as the palace itself, makes the effort well worth while. Kathmandu, a city which has been immortalized in countless songs, literary works, films and paintings, offers visitors numerous places of interest to visit, with some of the most noteworthy being Pashupatinath Temple, Boudhanath, Tharlam Monastery and the Kathmandu Durbar Square listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Post a Comment